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Magic Hour at Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion

We’ve been sitting on a Kyoto bus for what feels like a really long time. The driver is careful, and the baby is calm, but she’s already lost Sophian the French giraffe, and a Hello Kitty sock on the ride over. Fortunately, they’re recovered quickly thanks to the kindness of Japanese passengers who notice their disappearance long before I do.

I check the time.

Kinkaku-ji, “The Temple of the Golden Pavilion,” closes at 5:00 and it’s already 4:30. It seems unthinkable to miss it after being on the bus for such a long time. But just as I’m really getting antsy, we finally reach the stop. The 4 of us disembark, along with Naia in her stroller, and a tangle of other tourists.

The temple complex is just a few hundred metres away from the bus stop. We rush over, buy tickets, and hurry our way around the corner in the direction the staff has pointed us.

And stop short. Captivated.

 
The Golden Pavilion is luminous, it’s reflection shimmering in the calm waters that surround it. The sun is just starting to set, and it’s magic hour – that evanescent period of time between day and night when the light is truly bewitching.

And that’s how I feel. Bewitched.

The Pavilion looks unreal, the gold a blinding contrast to the dramatic sky above it and the sculpted green landscape around it. The harmony is sublime, and we all linger there, drinking it in for as long as we can, before we’re urged reluctantly out of the complex by closing time and the friendly old men that work there.

About Kinkaku-ji
Located in Northwest Kyoto, Kinkaku-ji is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site and one of the most popular tourist sites in Japan. Formally known as Rokuon-ji, it’s original use was as a villa for 14th Century shogun, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. After his death, the villa was converted into a Zen Buddhist temple, where zazen or religious meditation was practiced.

The sparkling Golden Pavilion has been burnt down several times, twice during the Onin wars, and most recently by a fanatic monk in 1950. It was fully restored in 1955 and the emblematic gold leaf replaced entirely in 1987.

Today, the 132,000 square metre temple grounds include Kyoko-chi, a large pond, with islands of various sizes, unusually shaped rocks and stones and a gorgeous Japanese strolling garden.

Visiting Kinkakuji
I’d seen many pictures of Kinkakuji before I actually saw it in person, and can safely say, that it’s one touristy site that’s much better live than in pictures. Definitely worth a visit.

We ended up at Kinkakuji during magic hour by fluke, but if you can time your visit to coincide with that time, it was beyond beautiful, and had the added bonus of being relatively quiet. Morning visits can be full of tour groups and schoolchildren on class trips.

Getting to Kinkakuji
There are a few ways to get to Kinkaku-ji. From Kyoto Station, take Kyoto City Bus number 101 or 205. The ride takes approximately 40 minutes and costs 230 yen. You need exact change, but there’s a coin machine on the bus to exchange bills. Alternatively, you can take the Karasuma subway line to Kitaoji Station, and then take a taxi or transfer to City Bus number 101, 102, 204 or 205 to reach the Temple.

We took the Kyoto Station route because we were closer to it, but in hindsight, taking the subway to Kitaoji Station is a much better way to go. That bus ride was looong.

For more information and history on the Golden Pavilion, visit the Japan Guide.

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Have you been to Kyoto? There’s so much to see and do there! Which sites blew you away? What do you recommend?

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8 Comments Post a comment
  1. Anisa #

    The Golden Temple was definitely my favorite. And the cherry blossoms were blooming – so beautiful!

    March 21, 2016
    • Ooooh, can’t imagine how beautiful it must be with the cherry blossoms blooming. Just like a dream…that place was so surreal. ๐Ÿ™‚

      March 21, 2016
  2. Beautiful shots. The Golden Pavilion literally looks like it is glowing, good timing with the light. Sounds like it is a bit of a way to get there, but looks like all of you had fun and the kid looks peaceful ๐Ÿ˜€

    March 21, 2016
    • Thanks Mabel. ๐Ÿ™‚ And would you believe it was way better in person, than any picture I could take. And so difficult to describe adequately with words. I’m really glad we went despite the long bus ride, and thank goodness Naia is as peaceful as she is. Will make traveling with her a real pleasure. ๐Ÿ˜€

      March 21, 2016
  3. Really gorgeous, and don’t you love when events conspire to make your visit happen at the perfect time? You probably couldn’t have even planned it so well! Japan is a gaping hole in my travel history, and your recent posts have inspired me to move it up my list!

    March 21, 2016
    • Totally love it when things work out that way! Until now, other than Tokyo, Japan has been a gaping hole in my travel history too, despite living just a few hours away. For shame. I think because Tokyo didn’t impress me so much coming from Seoul…but Kyoto and the surrounding area blew me away. Really stoked my desire to see more of Japan too! ๐Ÿ˜€

      March 22, 2016

Trackbacks & Pingbacks

  1. Travel-Stained Monthly Recap: March 2016 | Travel-Stained
  2. 2016: The Year we Learned how to Travel with a Baby | Travel-Stained

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